what bow should i get?

May 12, 2010 by Bowhunter  
Filed under Recurve Bows

Laura asked:

im looking at the bear Montana longbow and the grizzly recurve,when i looked at the Montana it looked like there was no arrow shelf,so my question is does it have a shelf?And the bow needs to be for deer hunting.i am 4.9' weigh 70 lbs and can pull 50# with some effort,
and im an experienced archer just need a better bow so dont say get a compound because i already have one.

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I'm getting a rest for my recurve and?

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4 Responses to “what bow should i get?”
  1. Baby Strollers

    That’s a lotta bow but with practice you will be able to master them. I like both styles and bows and you should try before you buy. Long bows don’t always have an arrow rest

    A recurve may or may not have and additional arrow rest

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    Laura, you surely got my attention I was looking at the same ones myself. Actually, you really do need to try it to see if you can hold the bow back for 3 seconds without shaking. This affects accuracy. Now, I say this because you stated that your very small. You don’t need 50lbs to kill a deer. You can do that with 45, which in many states is the legal strength for hunting deer. You will have to check to see that for yourself, but whatever you choose, go out to a sporting goods store, and see how it fits you. Some people prefer one or the other because people’s hands are different, and one always seems more comfortable than the other.

  3. Mens Rings says:

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    The Darton Ranger III is a good bow for a first time hunter light pull weights and short drawlengths or the Darton Pro 600 for a little more intensity but still a light pull weight bow and min 25″ Draw. I have personally killed a Whiteail with a Darton Cherrokee which is no longer in production at only 35 lbs so you should have absoulutely no problem with these AMERICAN MADE BOWS (made in Hale Michigan) Hope this helps and good luck hunting

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    Yes, the Bear Montana does have an arrow rest — it is actually the arrow shelf. (There is no real need to use a separate rest where the arrow sits on the edge of a “blade” or on a wire, because the arrow actually lifts up off of the rest [or shelf] on release)

    Your height and weight have nothing to do with how much draw weight you will be able to handle. What matters is how strong your archery muscles are — back, shoulder and forearm/hand muscles. I know short (less than 5-foot tall) archers who use short, 80-lb draw longbows (72-inch or more) and recurves — the bottom limb tip just has to clear the ground — and tall (over 6-foot) archers who use short, 40-lb compounds and recurves (less than 50-inches). It depends on personal preference and what you can actually handle.

    What you need to keep in mind when looking for a bow, is that (for example) when the Montana is rated at “50 pounds”, it means it has a draw weight of 50 pounds at a draw length of 28 inches. If YOUR draw length is greater or less than 28 inches, the draw weight of the bow will end up being greater or less than 50 pounds — approximately 2.5 pounds for every inch above/below that “magical” 28-inch draw length.

    You also say that you can pull 50 pounds “with some effort”. Do what is called “the elephant test”, from G. Fred Asbell’s article “Bow Weight and The Guy Thing” in Traditional Bowhunter Magazine: “A great test for bow weight is to point your bow straight down with the back of your bow-hand against your knee, and then pull the bow to full-draw with your finger in the corner of your mouth. Turn the bow the other way and try it with your thumb against the outside of your knee. Try it cold, when you haven’t shot an arrow…which is how it will happen to you in the woods. It’s a valid test… If you can’t do that, you probably need a lighter weight bow.” (plus, if you can’t pull back that string without straining in a hunting situation, you’re that much more likely to “spook” the deer – or whatever you’re hunting – with your “gymnastics” and/or grunting)

    And as has been said already by someone else, most states in the U.S. require a minimum of 45-lb draw for bowhunting. Some even allow a minimum of 35-lb draw. Check with the DNR (or Fish & Game) of the state you plan to do your hunting in for the full details and hunting regulations. The people in those states with the lower minimum draw weight requirements have realized that it isn’t necessarily the draw weight that kills the animal — it is the arrow, where it hits and how well it penetrates once it does hit. Make triple-sure your arows are made properly, for the bow you use AND your draw length AND the use you intend to put them to. Also, my “50-lb at 28-inch” longbow is able to cast my 625+ grain arrows more than 160 yards — but my friend’s “80-lb at 28-inch” recurve can barely cast his 750 grain arrows 80 yards (of the two bows, mine is better – and my arrows will always penetrate better than his; it has everything to do with PHYSICS). Make sure your bow is quality, and conforms to the requirements of the state you plan to hunt in before you commit to buying it.

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