Need help with archery/bow information?

May 15, 2010 by Bowhunter  
Filed under Recurve Bows

CC asked:

I have to do a project for school that has to do with researching the best types of bows. I have to buy a bow, too. So I was wondering if anyone can help me determine which bow would be best since theres too many types of bows to choose from.

Im leaning towards a compound bow, but there is also recurve, decurve, reflex, longbows...too many to choose from. So I was wondering if anyone could explain the differences and give examples like the advantages and disadvantages between each. For example: If you sacrifice power for speed and accuracy. Stuff like that.
Well, I was hoping to demonstrate firing a bow...but it was hard enough to request permission to bring a weapon on campus. Imagine how hard it would be to actually fire the thing.

Im just going to bring it in, name the parts, and demonstrate how to draw the string. I was thinking of creating a home made bow, too.

Pregnancy Miracle

Where can I learn archery?

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3 Responses to “Need help with archery/bow information?”
  1. Beauty Cosmetics

    Compound bows have a wheel and cable system that allows you to let off some of the draw weight when you pull the bow back. This makes it easier to hold while at full draw. They tend to be more powerful than the others as well. Recurves and longbows dont have letoff so if you pull a 50 lb bow back you are still holding 50lbs. Most people who hunt use compounds but some use the others. Recurves and compounds are viewed as more primitive and pure, and its really up to what the hunter wants to use. I use a compund. Bowhunting is hard enough without making the bow harder to use. lol. What would you be doing with the bow you purchase?

    I need to correct myself, I meant to say longbows instead of compounds in referencing the primitive bows.

    I agree with the other poster, if you arent going to be hunting with it, id just get a recurve. If youa rent going to stay with shooting after you do your demonstration, I wouldnt get carried away on buying one. Check ebay for a used one and just get a cheap one.

  2. Car Auctions

    I know Vic Wunderle the Olympic champion has been to several schools doing archery demonstrations. Of course being an Olympic medalist might give him an edge when asking for permits.

    What is best, well it depends on the task. If you want to pick a bow today that you can hunt with next week, then you’d better pick a compound. The average beginner archer can pick up a 45lbs compound and within an hour put 6 shots on a paper plate from 30 yards. This ease of use however comes with a price tag. Fully equipped compounds are much more expensive than recurves or longbows. Compounds are more powerful, this is true, but how accurate it is depends on the archer.

    If you want to take your time and learn the craft, then I suggest you start with a recurve. It is in general nicer to shoot than longbows. It’s more forgiving and smoother. Recurves are also pound for pound more powerful than longbows. It does take a lot more time to learn. But once you’ve reached the top, they can perform just about the same as a compound. It is a lot more physical, you need more strength to use a recurve than you do with a compound. This is the reason many older recurvers switch over to compound. Good thing about starting with a recurve is, you can switch to a compound and adapt quickly, if you start with sights. The same is not always true the other way around. The reason being, many people who learn to shoot with a compound, doesn’t actually learn proper form. You can get away with improper technique with a compound, but you can’t do that with a recurve.

    Longbows, are the choice of traditionalists. They’re beautiful to look at, but performance wise, they’re not all that.

  3. Classic Car says:

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    Different types of bows:

    Recurve, Compound, Longbow, Crossbow (yes, it is a bow), Footbow (“held” with the feet, not the hands), Shortbow; there might be more, but right now I can only think of these. “Shortbow” and “Longbow” are two separate types, although recurves ***and*** longbows can both be on the short side (I once saw a longbow which was 54″ in length…).

    Then there are the sub-types: Reflex, Deflex, Reflex-Deflex, Working recurve, Non-working recurve, Laminated, Composite, Self (just one piece of material, such as wood – nothing added), Backed (not the same as “Laminated” – such as “sinew backed”, “linen backed”, or “fiber-glass backed”; it adds strength to the bow), Primitive, etc. There are even combinations of the sub-types: Linen backed Reflex-Deflex longbow; Sinew backed non-working recurve; etc.

    Which type/sub-type is “best” under any particular set of circumstances depends on those circumstances. If you are in a huge hurry to have a bow to go hunting with, a primitive self bow with no backing is probably the best bow to have (and the easiest to make) — but if the main concern is to have a bow that is easy for a beginner to use while being extremely accurate, then a compound bow (with all the “bells & whistles” – sights, clicker, rest, etc) is the best choice.

    The idea that compound bows are always more “powerful” than all other bows is largely a myth. Any bow rated at a 50-lb draw weight has the exact same draw weight as any other bow rated at a 50-lb draw weight — whether recurve, compound or longbow (or any other type of bow). What matters is the bow’s design and limb tip mass/weight (the “limb tip” includes the outer portion of the limb, not just the extreme tip where the string sits); a “50-lb” recurve with heavy limb tips will tend to have less “power” than a “50-lb” longbow with light limb tips, because it takes more energy to move the heavier limbs. Of course, the further the string is drawn, the more “powerful” the bow can be (within limits – and every bow has built-in design limits; exceed those limits on some bows and someone will get hurt).

    The advantage of the recurve over the longbow is that a recurve can have shorter limbs while delivering the same amount of force as a longbow of the same draw weight rating. The compound bow’s advantage is the cam-shaped pulleys, allowing the archer to hold the bow at full draw for extended periods.

    The actual material the bow is made of also makes a difference. Fiber-glass is far more “forgiving” than wood, in that it can be bent for longer periods of time without suffering loss of elasticity; same thing with carbon-fiber, which happens to be lighter than fiber-glass. Most modern bows (of all types) are made of some combination of wood, fiber-glass and carbon-fiber. Each material has its own unique properties which are added to the “mix”.

    Back to “power”…If the arrow is delivered with accuracy and “power”, speed is not a huge importance; Humans have been putting venison on the table for millenia, using “slow” 190-250 fps arrows. All the “power” and speed in the world are completely worthless without accuracy — a fast, powerful miss is still a miss. With enough practice with the bow of their choice, any archer can be deadly accurate — and with the proper arrows, any bow can be deadly. “Any stick can be a bow…but only the proper arrow will do the job. The bow is just the means of delivering the arrow.”

    By the way, for indoor demonstrations of archery where archery is not normally done, I recommend using “flu-flu” arrows (big, long, “fuzzy” feather fletchings) with blunt tips. The arrows don’t fly very far at all, and the blunt tips help prevent serious injuries to walls, ceilings and people. Even better when the flu-flu is shot from a 25-lb bow…

    I hope this helps, even if only in some small way. :-)

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